Jewellery Technology & Machinery - JTM
Diamond Services reports a lowering threshold for synthetic diamonds, as man-made stones as small as 0.0025 cts. discovered in New York

Barely visible on the electronic scale, these tiny single-cut diamonds were discovered by Diamond Services to be laboratory grown.

Multiple single-cut diamonds, sized from a quarter point to half a point (0.0025-0.005 carats), which were contained in jewellery recently submitted for testing to a Diamond Services laboratory, have been found to be synthetic, greatly expanding the range of goods that can be considered at risk of improper and deceptive disclosure.

The jewellery in question was originally submitted to Diamond Services' laboratory in New York, and after several stones were detected as being potentially laboratory grown. Due to their size, the owner agreed that 11 of them set in eight rings, ranging in size from 0.0025 carats to 0.005 carats, could be removed and sent for full analysis at Diamond Services' facility in Hong Kong. There they were examined once again with Diamond Services' award-winning DiamaTest system, which ratified that the diamonds were synthetic, and these findings were confirmed by examination with the DiamondView system of De Beers' International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research (IIDGR) and Diamond Services Mini Raman Spectrometer.

Usually restricted to smaller-sized stones, single-cut diamonds typically have 17 or 18 facets, and some as few as 16, compared to the standard brilliant round cuts, which are made up of the 57 or 58 facets. Most round stones are first polished as single cuts, and then the additional facets are added. But when small stones are concerned, they are left as single cuts.

"To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time that a synthetic single-cut stone has been detected mounted in jewelry, and it is a credit to our Diamond Services procedures and set of equipment," said Jospeh Kuzi, Diamond Services founder and managing director. "What this means is that almost no diamond can be taken at face value."

The source of the single-cut synthetics is not immediately apparent, but Kuzi noted that the growing availability of CVD man-made diamond may prove to be a factor. "CVD is being widely in areas outside the diamond industry, and now includes diamond wafers being gown in laboratories for use in the electronics industry. It could be that waste from these labs and factories end up being processed as very small single-cut diamonds for jewellery," he said.

Diamonds submitted for synthetic screening at Diamond Services facilities are tested using several systems, including the DiamaTest and Mini Raman Spectrometer, both of which was developed by the company. The latter is the only system currently available that can definitely test rough and polished diamonds, both mounted and un-mounted, without the need to refer them for further testing, accurately detecting whether they are HPHT or CVD lab-grown synthetics within seconds.

Diamond Services, which was established in 2012 in Hong Kong, specializes in development of synthetic diamond detection devices. In 2013 it first introduced the DiamaPen®, a hand-held laser device that is able to detect fancy colour synthetic diamonds. In 2014 it introduced DiamaTest®, an innovative system that screens both loose and colourless diamonds for synthetics, for which it won the prestigious JNA 2014 Award. The Mini Raman Spectrometer was introduced to the market in 2015.

Diamond Services synthetic screening services are currently available at the company's headquarters in Hong Kong (19F Shing Lee Comm. Bldg., 8 Wing Kut St., Central, Hong Kong, tel: +1-852-2536-4555); and in the United States (15W, 47th St., Suite #1404, New York City, tel: +1-844-842-8122).

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